LEATHER

If you want a leather product that will give you years of beauty and utility, you should consider purchasing a product that has been lovingly crafted from fine, high-quality, vegetable-tanned leather.

This leather is environmentally friendly, does not expose its creators to toxic substances, and requires a level of craftsmanship that is rarely seen in today’s world of rapid machine production. Vegetable tanned leather is the epitome of quality and beauty and is created to provide a lifetime of use. Discerning buyers understand the artistry and creativity involved in creating leather of this quality.

WHAT IS VEGETABLE TANNING LEATHER?

Vegetable tanned leather is made through a special process that harnesses the power of natural tannins. These are found in organic materials to add a unique look and feel to the animal skin. We like to use only this type of leather for the entire range of items we produce.
While the names may sound similar, vegetable tanned leather should not be confused with vegan leather, which is not a real leather product at all.
To better understand how vegetable tanned leather differs from other types of leather products, it is important to know how it is created.

LEATHER TANNING PROCESS

Like any leather product, the process behind creating vegetable tanned leather begins immediately after an animal is slaughtered. The “green” or new hide is salted to preserve it and then hung in a structure called a beam house. From there, the hide is moved to a lime pit where it is immersed in a natural chemical called lime to remove the hair from the hides by dissolution. The hides are then placed in a vat containing tannin – in this case, natural tree bark or other organic materials. This softening process helps to dehydrate the skin, contributing to softness and a pleasant hand feel. The vegetable tanning process is long and artisanal, taking up to two months, which is why leather is more commonly tanned with minerals such as chromium. Although this tanning method uses quite a lot of water, it doesn’t pollute the environment like chrome-based leather tanning does. There is also less machinery, and therefore less electricity, involved in the vegetable tanning process.

WHY VEGETABLE TANNING LEATHER IS PREFERRED

The long and slow traditional techniques used to process vegetable tanned leathers mean that leather goods continue to soften and develop a beautiful patina as they age. Also, the tanning process leaves the leather with unique variations in shade and color. For vegetable tanned leather items including saddles, holsters, belts, wallets, journal covers, bags, shoes and purses, this means they will get even more comfortable the longer you use them. The edges of vegetable tanned leathers are polished or turned, meaning this leather is built to last for decades. Usually, this type of leather is stiff at first, but becomes more flexible over time. Vegetable tanned leather has that distinctive “leather” flavor rather than the typical chemical smell of chrome tanned products. The fragrance is sweet, woody and rich. The original fibers of the animal hide can easily be seen, adding character to it. A piece of vegetable tanned leather is truly a unique product. Due to the artisanal nature of the tanning process, vegetable tanned leather is more expensive than chrome leather. It is usually used for high quality handmade leather goods. However, it becomes wonderfully soft and pliable over time, so many manufacturers create long-lasting shoes, bags, belts and other products using this material.

BUCKLES AND METAL ACCESSORIES

The accessories are made by centrifugal casting and individually finished in our own workshop, from Sn-Sb-Cu alloy, called Britannia or Lead Free Pewter, of the best quality, according to European Norm no 1907/2006 regarding the content of Lead, Cadmium and Nickel in jewelry.

The metal accessories that come into direct contact with the skin are covered with a layer of varnish painted in an electrostatic field, they do not oxidize, they do not rust, they do not change their color over time and they do not cause allergies.

Pewter is a metal alloy that traditionally contains between 85 and 99% tin, with the remainder consisting of 1-4% copper, acting as a hardener. Traditionally, there were three grades of pewter: fine, tableware, with 96-99% tin and 1-4% copper; normal, also for eating and drinking utensils, but duller in appearance, with 92 percent tin, 1-6 percent copper, and up to 4 percent lead; and solder, not for eating or drinking utensils, which may contain up to 40 percent lead.

Modern pewter is an alloy of tin with copper, antimony and/or bismuth, without lead.

Physically, pewter is a lustrous metal that is very similar in appearance to silver. Like silver, pewter will oxidize over time to a dull gray if left untreated. Pewter is a very malleable alloy, being soft enough to be shaped with hand tools or cast by centrifugal force into fine jewelry or other pieces and accessories. The pewter can be polished to a characteristic sheen, further enhancing its perceived value and visual appeal.

Today’s fine, lead-free pewter is of a finer quality, and alloys that include antimony and bismuth are more durable and brighter. Modern pewter is about 91% tin, 7.5% antimony, and 1.5% copper; the absence of lead makes it safe to use for food and drink. The best pewter used today to make lead-free jewelry and product lines is approximately 97% tin to ensure only the cleanest and most environmentally friendly product lines. The surface of modern pewter is bluish-white with a bright finish or a soft, satin sheen. It resists staining, keeping its color and finish indefinitely.

Pewter is shaped by casting, striking, or in a spin mold, and is usually simply ornamented with moldings or engraving, although some showpieces, particularly from the Renaissance period in France and Germany, show intricate ornamentation. The pewter was used early in East Asia, and Roman pieces still exist today. England was a pewter center in the Middle Ages; pewter was the main tableware until replaced by porcelain.

“Early pewter”, high lead content, tarnished by time. With less than 35% lead, pewter was used for decanters, cups, canisters, bowls, dishes, candlesticks and canisters. The lead remained in solid solution with the tin, so the alloy was resistant to weak food acids. The tin-based alloy was used in the manufacture of household utensils. The pewter dates back at least 2,000 years, from the Roman era and contained approximately 70% tin and 30% lead.

Today’s fine “lead-free” pewter offers a talented craftsman a potential luster almost equal to silver in appearance. Add to this, the soft and flexible nature and you have a product that is well suited to any project that requires high perceived value, curved design and minimal weight. It is also the metal of choice for those involved in creating 3D sculpted models – as it is a pleasure to work with such a refined alloy.

Any reputable manufacturer today should use only the highest grade of pewter available, completely “Lead Free”. Although harder to find and somewhat more expensive, lead-free pewter is the material of choice for those savvy companies who truly want to provide the best and safest products to the eventual consumer.